I was invited at a dinner in Chateau de Beaune, the property of Maison Bouchard Père & Fils, owned by Joseph Henriot who received us with his charming wife Dominique.
We had the aperitif on a Champagne Henriot cuvée des Enchanteleurs 1995 which is comfortable and of a great charm.
Then Corton-Charlemagne Bouchard Père & Fils 2003 with a lovely acidity, being in an intermediary period between a young wine and a mature wine.
The Chevalier Montrachet Bouchard Père & Fils 1995 is at a stage of full accomplishment. It is solid, mature, full-bodied : "the right man at the right place".
The Montrachet Bouchard Père & Fils 1961 is a truly great wine, but is not legendary. It has not the grace and the power that a Montrachet could have in such a great year. And the evidence of this fact is given by the Corton Bouchard Père & Fils 1961 which is highly above the quality of the Montrachet. One could sip this wine for hours, drop by drop, just to enjoy Heaven.
But the star, the indisputable star is the Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus Bouchard Père & Fils 1891 which is a total shock. How is it possible that a wine of 120 years can have so much fruit. It is amazing. And the reason for that is that the vines where still untouched by phylloxera. I have had the chance to drink many pre-phylloxeric wines which have all the same youth. I said to the guests of this dinner that this wine could be taken as a 1964 wine, which makes a difference of three quarters of a century.
I was super excited to drink this wine which made me mad. I had already drunk a 1891 once, and this one is highly above. I consider that the Baby Jesus 1865 which I have drunk three times is above this 1891. But this 1891 is already in a stratospheric perfection. It is highly more "wow" than the Lafleur 1947 that I had the day before.