The meal began at Restaurant 1789 with a 2014 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts (1er cru) by François Carillon with a composed lobster course. The young wine showed promise and complexity, especially after breathing and warming for 15 minutes. A lovely, classy wine, but didn't impress me as much as the 2000 vintage I had a few years ago, made by the father. Worth cellaring. I expect a mature bottle will be exceptional.
The 1982 Leoville Las Cases was in very good condition, cellared by the donor for 20 years and purchased from a highly reputable local dealer. The fill was in the neck, with capsule intact, and a clean label. It was opened and handed to me to decant at the table. Sediment was minimal, mostly granular, yielding an excellent pour. Scents of classy old claret; blackberries, a touch of leather, anise wafted up from the glass. First taste was just water and cardboard but with a beautiful pronounced, complex bouquet. After the first course was finished and the wine poured all around with the entrees (I had Tournedos Rossini) the taste had proven there was fruit behind the tannin waiting to come out. Still tannic and muted at first, it slowly evolved into a complete and well balanced wine, with the flavors matching the bouquet mentioned above. An impressive, serious wine, just entering its prime at age 36, it proved to be quite a nice bottle. A little too strait-laced for my personality. A “business wine” perhaps, if one is to consider the “personality”… A wine to like, respect, but for me anyway, not to love.