For the past few years, each time we are in Paris, we go to Latour d`Argent and their sister restaurant across the street, Rotisserie, formerly known as Rotisserie du Beaujolais.
The "house" champagne in both is under the Labour d`Argent label and it is really good IMHO. Finally, and after many a bottle, I asked the Master Sommelier, David Ridgway [correct spelling] at Labour d`Argent who made this for them and R&L Legras was the answer.
When I returned from Paris, I looked for Legras and found zip. Then I asked a friend who is in the import business and he directed me to one source who represented them [Envoyer] and I scored 2 mags of this and a few 750s of other bottlings. Here`s the first one just opened:
2002 R & L LEGRAS PRESEDENCE VIELLES VIGNES BLANC de BLANC BRUT- magnum; this had a myriad of flavours which kept on evolving with more and more coming in and i almost use up my repertoire of fruit descriptors to include them all; first the nose was mellow and yet generous enough to give some spicy citrus, tropical and floral notes with a hint of toast; lemon and lime came in early followed by white peach, pear, ripe green apple and the eventual prevailing fruit, grapefruit, which took over and completed the deal; this was by no means a fruit bomb; it had decent balance including really nice acidity; the mouthfeel was perfectly pleasing and it it finished with a crescendo like uptick; impressive.
BTW, there was no semblance of this champagne to the house bubbly at the 2 restaurants. Both good and way different.
Please excuse typos and unintended auto-corrects