In the last few years, I have been enjoying some fine young white Burgundies. One producer in particular has stood among all others, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. Only a few days ago, the 2011 Saint Aubin En Remilly Cuvee Nicholas & Mathis 1er Cru knocked my socks off as well as others and the sockless crew picked this as the WOTN against some good competition of both white and red Burgundy.
A few days prior to that, I had been offered an opportunity to attend a wine trade tasting in LA that featured the personal appearance among others of Pierre-Yves Colin and some of his 2014s. My initial thought was, “I have to do this” and I responded stating such and responded to all emailed with “who else may want to share the trip down to LA and back”. There were no replies. Then at a dinner a few nights later, another who had already independently committed to going stated I could tag along with him. I instantly and humbly accepted.
The trade tasting was put on by Atherton Wine Imports out of Menlo Park and sponsored and headed by my friend, George Derbalian, president and CEO. Upon entering, George greeted me with his usual charismatic smile and a handshake and afterward I moved forward toward the first table that had champagne, always a good place to start.
I made personal tasting notes which are much more in detail than I include in this review for the sake of brevity even though this is lengthy enough.
I tasted through the 3 Lenoble NV champagnes on ice. I`d had all 3 previously and have some in my cellar so this was a re-visit and a re- confirmation of the style I`ve come to expect from this producer. It is one of a full bodied, full on flavorful bubbly delivered in a lush, creamy texture and these 3 followed suit:
NV A.R. LENOBLE BRUT INTENSE
NV A.R. LENOBLE GRAND CRU BLANC de BLANC
NV A.R. LENOBLE BRUT ROSE TERRIORS
I had already spotted Pierre-Yves and his wife, Caroline pouring next to each other and purposefully waited until their tables were less crowded before sauntering over.
Some recent history. The Domaine Jean-Marc Morey was divided 3 ways after the 2013 vintage. Jean-Marc held onto some vineyards and Pierre-Yves and Caroline split the remainder. Both of them favor extended elevage and larger barrels which minimize the oak influence and delay malolactic fermentation.
While tasting through the 5 white Burgundies Pierre-Yves was pouring, I shared the recent stellar showing of his 11` En Remilly Cuvee Nicolas & Mathis and he was almost apologetic and embarrassingly pleased. Thus, I got an early clue as to the genuineness and integrity of the individual standing in front of me. I`m even more impressed only reading him through his wines.
All 5 of his wines were deliciously flavorful, had magnificent texture and were beautifully balanced. The Ancegnieres took it to another level and was my favs amongst 5 winners:
2014 PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY MEURSAULT NARVAUX
2014 PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY CHASSAGNE ANCEGNIERES
2014 PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY PULIGNY TREZIN
2014 PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY CHENEVOTTES 1ER CRU
2014 PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY CHARMES 1ER CRU
I moved on to Caroline`s table and she also greeted me with a smile and a dose of gentle charm. Her wines were equivalent to her personality; they all had a degree of finesse and charming elegance and certain feminine accent for such. I love this style and liked all that I tasted which included:
2014 CAROLINE MOREY CHASSAGNE CHAMPS GAIN 1ER CRU
2014 CAROLINE MOREY CHASSAGNE CHAUMEES 1ER CRU
2014 CAROLINE MOREY CHASSAGNE CAILLERETS 1ER CRU
2014 CAROLINE MOREY CHASSANGE MONTRACHET ROUGE
There was an unattended side table with an assortment of wines on ice on a self pour basis. I obliged and tasted:
2013 JEAN-MARC MOREY CHASSAGNE la BERGERIE
2013 BALLOT-MILLOT MEURSAULT les CRIOTS
2014 PAUL PERNOT PULIGNY MONTRACHET
2014 PAUL PERNOT PULIGNY CLOS des FOLATIERES 1ER CRU
2013 LATOUR-GIRAUD MEURSAULT GENEVIERES 1ER CRU
The latter 2 were the stars of this show.
The table next to this one had another large lineup of individual wines also for self serving. I tasted 7 of 8 and all were good with the standouts being the Charles Van Canneyt, Roty Champs Chenys and especially the Gros Vosne Romanee:
2013 LATOUR-GIRAUD POMMARD REFENE 1ER CRU
2013 CHARLES VAN CANNEYT CORTON RENARDES GRAND
CRU [Charles is the winemaker for Domaine Hudelot-Noellat]
2013 GROS FRERE et SOEUR BOURGOGNE HAUTES COTES de NUITS
2013 ROTY MARSANNAY ROUGE
2013 ROTY GEVREY CHAMBERTIN CHAMPS CHENYS
2013 GROS FRERE et SOEUR VOSNE ROMANEE
2013 DROUHIN-LAROZE CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY
The largest table was occupied by Domaine Frederic Esmonin which was helmed by father and son, Andre and Frederic. They had a double row of 11 2014s. Recently, I`ve enjoyed and appreciated some wines from this producer made in the last 10-15 years. Although there were some good ones, I found the last 2 really impressed beyond the others. I tasted 8:
2014 DOMAINE FREDERIC ESMONIN GEVREY CLOS PRIEUR
2014 DOMAINE FREDERIC ESMONIN NUITS HAUTS PRULIERS
2014 DOMAINE FREDERIC ESMONIN GEVREY V.V. les JOUISES
2014 DOMAINE FREDERIC ESMONIN GEVREY CHAMPONNETS 1ER CRU
2014 DOMAINE FREDERIC ESMONIN GEVREY ESTOURNELLES ST.-JACQUES 1ER CRU
2014 DOMAINE FREDERIC ESMONIN GEVREY LAVAUX ST.-JACQUES
2014 DOMAINE FREDERIC ESMONIN MAZY-CHAMBERTIN
2014 DOMAINE FREDERIC ESMONIN RUCHOTTES-CHAMBERTIN
There was a table of Bordeaux from various producers and another featuring the wines of Chateau Kirwan with proprietor, Sophie Schyler pouring. I tasted only one:
2003 CHATEAU KIRWAN MARGAUX- very good wine with tasty, spicy black fruit and in balance; a good rep of the 03` vintage.
Additionally, I tasted a 2012 from Gigondas made by Domaine Brusset; I loved its spicy pepper notes; and I tasted a CDP from Domaine Saouma [Lucien le Moine].
There was one more table which I passed on pouring the wines from Hestan Vineyards in Napa and one Sauternes from Rabaud.
To have quality champagne and white and red Burgs all in a couple of hours and not have to be responsible for anything else is definitely a dose of heaven.
Thankfully, I was not responsible for getting us back to Santa Barbara and enjoyed the 2 hours ride reminiscing over the wines that we had just explored and enjoyed.
Life continues to be good.
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