Dinner with Burgundy: 7 whites, 3 reds, 2 bookend helpers

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Blake Brown
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Dinner with Burgundy: 7 whites, 3 reds, 2 bookend helpers

Post by Blake Brown » Sun Feb 28, 2016 12:33 pm

Our dinner group convened recently at the local fine Petit Valentien restaurant to enjoy their consistently excellent cuisine and pair with red and white Burgundy.

We ordered about 2 of every appetizer on the menu and then individually ordered our own preferences. Ten of us were seated in the small but intimate and semi private upstairs dining area which has enough space for one large table along with a nearby side table that works perfectly for ice buckets, additional stemware and our bottles in waiting.

The wines:

2006 MOET & CHANDON BRUT GRAND VINTAGE- affectionately called Baby Dom, this special bottling consists of some of the fruit from the 06` vintage used in the blend for the house`s prestigious and net tier, Dom Perignon; I had just received a 6 pack of this after 1 day shipping and it may have been suffering from a bit of transportation shock and therefore too soon to open; regardless, it did have some endearing characteristics, but I suspect there`s much more coming in a few weeks and then after long term cellaring; this bottle had nice citrus acidity with lemon and orange notes coming in along with a mild brioche and spice component.

2007 PIERRE MOREY les TESSONS MEURSAULT- early on there are wafts of minerals, flint and a steeliness that is more prevalent in the nose than taste which consists of a creamy smooth textured delivery of fresh citrus with a slight hint of pear and apricot; the most significant hallmark was the mouthfeel.

1992 COMTES LAFON MEURSAULT-CHARMES 1ER CRU- the golden color and a hit off the nose suggested this was oxidized, but further investigation showed it was still viable and had some redeeming qualities to share; it did have some mature, tertiary flavors including almond peach and a light hit of caramel; I believe it`s safe to say this bottle had reached maturity and moved on beyond, a good time to drink now although a couple of years ago would have been more ideal.

2011 PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY SAINT AUBIN en REMILLY 1ER CRU- [Cuvee Nicholas & Mathis shown on the label in small print] the vineyard is literally a few feet from the famed Montrachet vineyard and what`s in the bottle verifies it; this was a magnificent bottle that hit it on all sensory aspects for pleasure; the nose is extremely inviting in an elegant and sophisticated manner and promises to indicate the forthcoming treats; the taste profile has nice flinty, spiced citrus flavors; it`s lush and creamy texture carries all to a long finish; the wine is in perfect balance and it just keeps on delivering with each taste; I`m already thinking WOTN

2005 HENRI BOILLOT CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU- this started out with some funk in the nose which fortunately blew off after time; this included some moldy, earthy, mineral character which eased up a bit; even the fruit profile began with a tartness, but then the whole world opened up and it moved on into some more pleasing notes; this included nice citrus, especially lemon lime fruit still saturated with acceptable integration of minerality.

2002 BOUCHARD PERE & FILS CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU- the nose was somewhat muted and what I did decipher included mild spicy citrus flavors which continued on with more obvious apple and lemon zest; I liked the mouthfeel as it was a light creamy texture and that served to lengthen the finish which by this time had gained momentum for a better end after a slow start.

2014 PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY SAINT AUBIN en REMILLY 1ER CRU- young, vibrant and playful, this gave up aromatics of significant graphite and flint that was joined by flavors of ripe green apple and pear; the texture was rich and creamy which served to soften some of the boldness in the yet to evolve fruit profile; it had good acidity and length; this is another future star from this incredibly consistent producer putting out stellar wines.

2011 DOMAINE BLAIN-GAGNARD BARTARD-MONTRACHET GRAND CRU- a mildly flinty nose is accompanied by mineral infused lemon and grapefruit notes which expand and move on through; by mid palate, some spicy ginger accents are more apparent and the lemon spice is even more evident through the finish; the balance is perfect and the taste profile is just as perfect; the bright acidity ensures a long and successful life; now I have a tie for WOTN at this point.

After champagne and 7 fine white Burgs, we were graced with a 3 reds:

2004 DOMAINE ROBERT CHEVILLON les SAINT GEORGES NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1ER CRU- the aromatics had easily detectable mint flavored fruit and flowers which moved on and became more indentified with flavors of toasty, smoky, spicy red cherry and raspberry; the fruitiness stood out and became a hallmark for the entire grand experience; the wine had a medium body, layered depth and a nice long finish.

2001 BOUCHARD PERE & FILS la ROMANEE GRAND CRU- a rare find for a red Burg to show up with a toasty version of maraschino cherry, but that`s what I got with this bottle; there`s some clove and spice as well along with a dollop of minerality; it`s the pronounced upfront fruitiness that stands out here in this more one dimensional showing.

2012 DOMAINE DROUHIN-LAROZE CLOS de VOUGEOT GRAND CRU- this had a nose and taste profile of toasty black cherry/ berry which was a bit on the tart side; it had a medium body and pleasant mouthfeel to add to the overall pleasure.

Bringing up the rear or in this case finishing off the night, we enjoyed this bring from our Prince of Sweetness:

1994 ALOIS KRACHER TBA #9 CHARDONNAY- 375ml; this sticky had an abundance of spicy butterscotch laden peach and apricot flavors delivered in a thick and almost chewy substance; certainly it qualifies for dessert in a glass on a stand alone basis in spite of the fact that our table ordered numerous solid forms; either way, we needed spoons to partake.

When it came time to vote for WOTN, I had to pick one and went with the 11` PYCM Saint Aubin which the group picked as well. In my heart, the Batard was just as great. How wonderful to have such choices in life.


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