TNs: 79` Diebolt-Vallois, Morey- Coffinet, 7 Perrot-Minot`s, 88` Gillete

[Blake Brown]

Over the years, successful bids on wine/ lifestyle live auction lots have provided many wonderful opportunities to enjoy one of a kind type experiences that exude with class, quality and the company of truly special people. Recently, I experienced another one which was held in the private dinning room of Restaurant Gary Danko in San Francisco, one of my favorite restaurants on the planet. Our specially prepared menu and the accompanying wines, all double decanted, were:

* AMUSE BOUCHE *

1979 DIEBOLT-VALLOIS CRAMANT BLANC de BLANC- 2-750s; the first bottle suggested some oxidation with a little of the caramel, butterscotch, nuttiness initially, but it blew off and evolved into a delightful and refreshing, full bodied bubbly; it moved into some nectarine, lemon and grapefruit notes; great acidity; the 2nd bottle started out like the first one and stayed there; it also had some white truffle character which led one to remark, “anything that tastes like white truffles can`t be bad.

* CRISPY FARM EGG W/ WHITE POLENTA, ROYAL TRUMPET MUSHROOMS, FRISEE AND PANCETTA *


2008 DOMAINE MOREY COFFINET BLANCHOTS DESSUS CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET- with a steely, flinty and mineral rich nose, this nice, medium bodied wine offered dried apple/ pear notes with the ongoing minerality and a smooth mouth feel and good acidity; great food pairing.

• STRIPED BASS W/ SPECK, GNOCCHI, BUTTERNUT SQUASH, CRIMINI MUSHROOMS, CAPERS AND SAGE *

2008 DOMAINE PERROT-MINOT CHARMES CHAMBERTIN- another perfectly matched food pairing here, this really fine young wine gave some wonderful fresh red fruitiness and promises to balance out into something even more elegant.

• QUAIL STUFFED W/ FOIE GRAS, MUSHROOMS AND QUINOA, SAVORY CABBAGE, CIPOLLINI-PECAN CHUTNEY AND A BREAD DUMPLOING *

2004 PERROT-MINOT LA COMBE d`ORVEAUX CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY VV- with this exquisite course, this wine married beautifully giving wild tart red/ black fruit and a silky smooth texture and completely dispelled any preconceived thoughts of a lesser quality from this vintage as did other 04`s to follow; for me, it really gets back to the producer and not the vintage, especially in Burgundy.

2004 PERROT-MINOT CHARMES CHAMBERTIN- I liked this one a touch more, more balanced with good structure and nice red fruitiness, this was soft and pleasant throughout and opened up even more with time; again, I expected less and happily got way more.


2005 PERROT-MINOT CHARMES CHAMBERTIN- although this was really wound tight, it eventually evolved into a state that was somewhat approachable and one more notch above the first 2 in this flight; big, complex and as one stated, “massive”; lots of wild berries/ cherries/ strawberries and spice; it`s really a candidate for cellaring for many years down the road.

*LEMON PEPPER DUCK BREAST W/ DUCK HASH, BACON, BRAISED ENDIVE AND FIGS*

2004 PERROT-MINOT MAZOYENES CHAMBERTIN VV- another 04` delight, this offered lots of ripe, wild, spicy and tart berries with enough tannins to suggest longevity.

2005 PERROT-MINOT MAZOYENES CHAMBERTIN- a lovely wine; better than the 04` in every way; more expressive with fresh red fruit flavors and structure and complexity.

2006 PERROT-MINOT MAZOYENE CHAMBERTIN- easily the best in this flight and one of my favs of the night, this just had more to offer from nose through the long finish; the importer, present at this dinner, stated the 07` is even better with even better structure and balance.

*LEMON SOUFFLE CAKE W/ CRÈME FRAICHE PANNA COTA AND RASPBERRY SORBET*

1988 CHATEAU GILLETE TETE de CUVEE SAUTERNES- from a vineyard next to Chateau d`Yquem, this wonderful dessert wine topped the dinner off beautifully; thick, creamy and luscious, it was loaded with fresh lemon- lime, apricot and peach flavors which coated the palate for hours, a good thing.

Life is good!

Cheers.

[laurent gibet]

An excellent Diebolt-Vallois 1976 last saturday ... (a great vintage)

The Diebolt-Vallois Fleur de passion 2002 was not as interesting.

[Jeff Leve]

Gillette is an odd wine. The property holds it for 20-25 years before releasing it and the wine does not see new oak, so it lacks the custard, vanilla flavors found in most Sauternes. Sometimes I like the wine, at other times, I have not been that happy with it.

[Christer Byklum]

Yes, that 88 is probably the latest release of Gillette, the 86 was available two years back. But they are not next door neighbours to Yquem I think, aren't they below Suduiraut?

[Blake Brown]

Yes, that 88 is probably the latest release of Gillette, the 86 was available two years back. But they are not next door neighbours to Yquem I think, aren't they below Suduiraut?

I actually did not check this out. I only took the word of the importer, Martine Saunier, who supplied all of the wines for this event from her portfolio and added editorial comments. Regardless, it was a wonderful dessert in a glass experience.

[Christer Byklum]

I'm not fully sure, but I think they are located behind the forest at the lowest part of Suduiraut.